1970 Buick Grand Sport Convertible ......
The beautiful 1970 Buick Grand Sport qualifies as a survivor and is one of the very best preserved cars that I have seen. Jim purchased this car new off the showroom floor when he returned from overseas duty in the military.  He also acquired a new love by the name of Sylvia, whom he married in 1972. This car was their only transportation and served them well in the early years for work, play, and moonlight drives with the top down. They knew they wanted to keep this car and placed it in storage for many years.

It does get a chance to enjoy the sunshine for a few days each summer. Actual miles on this convertible are only 3,800 miles and still has the original bias red line tires which appear new. The top is dark brown to match the interior as well as the exterior. Jim & Sylvia drive it about 100 miles each year -- just enough to ensure that this Buick will be in their family for many generations to come.

This Buick is a stage one. It has a 451 cid engine, a high lift cam and a quadrajet carburetor. Everything is heavy duty including the function air scoops. The 360 bhp engine delivers 510 foot pounds of torque to the rear wheels. When GM came out with the saying "light your fire", they really did do it right. Only 1,416 were made in 1970. They retailed for $3,469.00
Jim & Sylvia Gusick,   Billings, Montana

David North of Billings, Montana possesses a talent that millions of car lovers wish we had.  He can transform thought to actual design.  He discovered this at the age of 16 while attending Senior High School in the 50s.  His talent caught the eye of a General Motors executive who was on vacation and spotted his drawings at a local Cadillac dealership.  From that moment his life would change forever.  After High School, David graduated from the Art Center School of Pasadena, California in 1959, which is considered the nation’s top design school.  This launched his stunning career with General Motors that lasted for 33 years earning him the title of “Chief Designer.”  It doesn’t get any better than that.  This man is credited with a class of cars that will live on with all of us who are car lovers.  They are the Pontiac GTO and Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Toronado, Cadillac Eldorado, along with the Buick Riviera and the incomparable Buick Reatta.  A young man in a vast new world had his career launched to the very top with his design of the GTO, which gained in popularity through the years.  It is one of the most sought after classics of all time.  It began when John Delorean, who was one of the best-known Engineers in the world, asked David to sketch a backroom prototype of what became the muscle car we call the GTO.

The Cord 810, built in 1936, was the first American production car to have front wheel drive.  North once said he always had pictures of the Cord around to inspire him.  The Toronado has proven to be one of his greatest success stories.  Volumes have been written about this car in books all over the world.  This car set the trend for the rest of the industry in power, performance and style.  It delivers 385 horsepower to the front wheels directly off the assembly line.  The Europeans were saying that you could not have possibly put more than 200 horsepower to the front wheels without breaking the half shafts.  But here was a car that weighed 4311 pounds dry.  Yet it handled beautifully, even winning Pikes Peak Hill Climb.  The year was 1966 when it became Motor Trend Car of the Year.  North credits his styling from a drawing he made in his early 20’s known to the automotive world as “The Red Flame”.  This drawing was made with a stunning scarlet air brush against a jet-black background.  This car may have been made over 40 years ago; however, Jay Leno said he would like to make a modern version of the Toro.  He purchased an old beater for $800 and, with his crew and the help of the top General Motors Production Engineers, transformed this stock Toronado into a rear wheel drive with horsepower of 1070 at 6350 rpm using a prototype small block by GM Performance.  His feeling is that these cars were designed by guys who went to college.  They were professionals who did this for a living.  And honestly, as much as I love hot rods, I rarely see a chopped car that looks as nice as stock.  You can only imagine that thrill that David North felt in the spring of 2006 when he had the honor to drive this truly great car with Jay Leno sitting in the passenger seat. 

In every young man’s life will come the time when he has achieved his own rite of passage.  This came when the GM executives offered North the chance to design the 1967 Cadillac Eldorado.  His father drove a Cadillac and a son’s childhood dream of working in the GM Division of Cadillac had now come true.  North referred to the Cadillac as “The Crown Jewel”.  He remains a design consultant for General Motors.  He also drives a black Cadillac CTS, courtesy of General Motors. 

David met the woman he is destined to spend his life with in 1954.  Pat and David were both Burning the Point in downtown where you went to see and be seen.  Pat was in a car customized with breather pipes to allow the family dog to ride in the trunk.

A personal note from the author:  David and Pat are truly the nicest people one can ever meet.  Success has not changed them from who they really are.

To watch Jay Leno interview David go to www.jaylenosgarage.comthen click VIDEOS then click OLDSMOBILES then click on 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado.

This story was originally published in Classic Cars of Montana and Wyoming by Duane Demars.  

A Most Important Decision

 By Monty Wallis

Paint and body work are one of the biggest investments you’ll make on your classic car rebuild.  Finding the right professional to do the job is perhaps the most important decision you will make and doing research is a big part of making the right decision.  Here is an important tip.  Look for a paint and body shop that specializes in, or has a lot of experience with classic cars.  Classics have their own special set of problems and complexities and many shops just don’t have the experience…or don’t want to take time to effectively deal with them.

Recently, I had a chance to witness just how important this selection process is.  I received a recommendation on a paint and body shop and in turn passed that on to a friend.  They took their classic in for a minor paint project and got a good result for a fair price.  So, they decided to give that shop a chance to do a bigger project on another classic car.  And that is where the problems began.  The project involved a good deal of body work as well as a complete paint job.  The first sign of problems came when the shop’s owner didn’t start the job on the agreed date.  Days, then weeks passed and the car sat in the shop’s lot.  There were lots of excuses but no action…that should have been a major warning sign.  Finally the call came and the car was ready.  When the owner went to pick it up, what a disappointment!  The car actually had been damaged at the shop and that damage was not repaired and then painted over.  Needless to say, the owner was not happy and the bill was not paid.  The good news is that body and paint shop is no longer in business.  The car was then taken to another local body and paint shop and the results this time were spectacular.  When the shop ran into hidden problems they called immediately and involved the owner in making the right decision.  In fact, when it became apparent that the job was going to be much bigger than originally thought, the shop met with the car owner and agreed to fix it right and take time payments on the amount over the original bid.  The shop owner just wanted to do the job right and the car owner appreciated their honesty and integrity.  What a different approach from the first shop!

So how can you prevent these types of problems from happening to you?  First, take a look around and see who has a classic car with great body and perfectly applied paint work.  The devil is in the details.  Talk to as many people as you can.  Find out who they used and just how satisfied they are with the finished product.  Was the job completed in a timely manner?  Did the shop take good care of the car while it was in their possession?  How would they rate the finished product and the service they received?  Would they go back to that shop with their next project?

If at all possible, look for the best local shops and pick the one that has the best reputation.  Ask for references and then call them.  Don’t just shop price…shop quality.  By picking a local shop, you can spend time with the owner and his crew and you can make regular visits to his shop during the job and check his progress.  A good shop wants you involved from start to finish and will communicate with you and keep you up to date.  They want you to see what they are doing and are proud of their work.

They will let you know if they run into problems and how it will affect the final bill.  Remember, a good shop will never ask you to pay in full upfront.  You can pay as you go or at the completion of the work.

A great classic car is an investment.  Investing in the highest quality body and paint work will pay dividends for years to come.

 

How dry I am…

 By Bill Henry

Just in case you haven’t noticed, we live in a very dry climate.  Even our skin and hair are dry and this time of the year, the humidifier runs constantly.  Well, this dryness takes its toll on our cars too.  If you notice those little cracks along the sidewalls of your tires that run into the tread, it means just one thing… dry rot.  And dry rot doesn’t just happen to your tires, anything rubber or vinyl is a prime target. These materials naturally degrade over a period of years depending on climate, temperature and humidity.  How you store your vehicle can either help or delay this process.  With tires, the air pressure inside your tires is also a determining factor.  The common denominator in all these products is oil. As the oils in the rubber and vinyl begin to evaporate, the dry rot process begins.

 So what can you do to prevent this happening to your classic car?  First, drive that car often, especially during the winter storage period.  Drive it at least once per month and more often if you can.  Pick a nice day when there is little or no moisture on the pavement and put as many miles on the car as you can.  Get the tires up to highway speed and let the rubber compounds heat up.  This helps prevent dry rot and gets the oil compounds circulating in the tires.  Also, keep those tires up to rated pressure.  Under-inflated tires seem to crack and decompose more quickly.

 Where you store your car makes a difference.  Storing a car near excessive heat or in direct sunlight will speed up the deterioration process.  Also, try getting your tires off the cement.  Just driving onto boards can make a difference, but be sure not to use treated lumber.  The chemicals in treated lumber could possibly react with the chemicals in your tires over a long period of time.

 For the inside vinyl, regularly using a good vinyl or leather cleaner and sealer will help keep the moisture in place. Door panels, dash boards, seats and consoles all need to be cleaned and treated on a regular basis.  Rubber seals and trim should also be treated to keep them soft and pliable.

 Years ago, a doctor friend was discussing the aging process.  When someone asked how he was doing…he jokingly said…he was in "a constant state of deterioration."  Well, that is true of both people and cars.  How well and how often we do maintenance on ourselves and our vehicles can determine how long we and the vehicle last.  Another one of the doctor’s favorite sayings was…”I would rather wear out than rust out.”  If exercise is great for the body then the same holds true for cars too.  So the best prescription for a long life for us and for our cars may be a good dose of preventative maintenance and regular exercise.   

Buying Your First Classic Car

By Bill Henry

So, the bug has bitten you and you have your eye on an old classic car sitting behind your neighbor’s garage?  It looks pretty good from across the fence, but it’s tough to tell from a distance.  There is a dusty old “For Sale” sign visible in the front window, but chances are the owner gave up on selling the car a long time ago.  So, what is the best way to see if this car is for you?  Here’s where asking the right questions is vitally important.

First things first…is this really the type of car you would like to restore, and is the vehicle in good enough shape to warrant the restoration process?  Next, can you restore it to the level you would like at a price you can afford; and if you do would the vehicle’s restored value justify that expenditure?  How much of the restoration can you do yourself?  Is a “frame off” restoration in the cards?  Do you have the tools to do what you want to do?  What is the car’s actual mileage?  Are there still parts readily available for this model? What is this model worth today in the condition it’s in?  Do you a secure place to work on the car and store it?  All are questions you need to ask and answer before you make your move.

So, you’ve answered those questions and this car still looks promising.  It’s time to chat with the owner and ask more questions. Is the car still for sale?   Does it still run?  How long has it been sitting in the back yard?  Would he be willing to let you take a close look and maybe even get it started?  What’s wrong with the car?

Once you’ve done your due diligence and are still interested, you are probably ready to have a mechanic and body man take a close look.  It may cost you a few bucks, but having a good mechanic start up the vehicle for the first time, may save you a ton of bucks later on.  He’ll look for fluid leaks, broken or missing parts; check the compression, transmission and rear end.   He can give you a quick estimate of the cost of the mechanical restoration, or what it will take to replace the motor or drive train.  Then a good body man can look for rust, frame damage, previous repairs and give you a guess of paint and body work.  Make sure he checks the trunk, floor and door panels.

Then it’s time to evaluate the interior.  What condition are the seats, door panels and dash board?  What else needs to be done to the interior?

Sound complicated?  Not really…just common sense things to ask and do before you commit your wallet and tons of time and effort to a long term project. But wait… there are still a few more things to consider like the cost of ownership.  Insurance for classics is fairly reasonable.  But with old cars comes constant maintenance and repairs.  It just seems you never get them to the level you would like.  There is always something to do or buy to make them look or drive like you would like. 

Still interested?  Good…you will find yourself involved in a wonderful hobby and get to meet and know the nicest people.    

2012 Car Show Season

By Monty Wallis

CMYRYD.COM is your source for every scheduled car event in the region and CMYRYD’s Duane Demars is in the process of gathering information on all 2012 Car Shows and events.   Make sure your event is listed on the website. And for the first time, car enthusiasts can now click directly to your Club/Event Website from our Events Page.   This gives you the opportunity to provide dates/times and more information on your club and event directly to classic car enthusiasts across the country.  You can better market your event and gain new members for your club or organization.  Ask Duane for details.

 Make the most of your upcoming 2012 event season and let thousands of enthusiasts know about your club or organization.  Let CMYRYD.COM help make 2012 a banner year for you!

 By Monty Wallis

 This is a great time of the year to do a complete wash job on your classic car. Here are a few tips on getting the most out of this project. First, pick a comfortable day. This time of the year, If you can find a day in the 50’s with no wind…it’s time to make your move. Next make sure you have the right tools. Get a good quality washing mitt for starters. You can find several types at most auto parts stores that will effectively do the job. The cotton mitts always seem to work best for me, but be sure to clean them often during the wash process. Make sure you use plenty of water to spray down the car before washing. Rinse off any dirt or other materials that could scratch the paint. Then, when you start the washing process, use a good cleaner that is made for the purpose.  Do the top first and work your way down. Let the dirt and debris flow off the car. There are dozens of cleaners on the market and most will insure a better wash job. Non-detergent cleaners are best…they don’t strip the wax from the car’s finish and help keep the shine. One of the most important parts of the wash process is drying the car. Water and mineral spots can etch into your paint if left on the car. A good cotton cloth or chamois work best and stay away from scratchy materials like microfiber cloths which can leave swirl marks on the paint. Be sure to spend extra time on the tires and wheels. Get the brake dust off and clean those nooks and narrow areas where debris hides.  

 If you find spots of tar, bugs or even tree sap, there are many spray products that will help remove the material. These solvents are normally well tested and safe to use on most finishes, but It is always best to test the product first to make sure it won’t harm your paint or chrome. You can also use an automotive clay bar kit to remove stubborn debris. Be careful of using rubbing compounds on your vehicle. You can easily remove clear coat and paint and cost yourself a ton of money. See a professional before you reach for the rubbing compound.  

After a thorough cleaning, check for oxidation. You can easily tell if the car’s finish doesn’t have that original shine. That’s where a mild polish or cleaner comes in. Your goal is to restore the original shine while removing the oxidation and still keep that expensive paint on the car.

 The next to last step is equally important. Use a good wax to seal-in that shine and protect the paint. Once again, there are dozens on the market and Consumer Reports regularly evaluates many of the most popular brands.   The final step in the process is the application of a good automotive paint sealer to minimize UV damage and provide long lasting protection.    Don’t forget the chrome.

 Once the outside is clean and polished, it’s time to work on the interior. First get the dust off the everything. Use one of the many spray on protectorates on the dash, plastic and wood. A good leather cleaner will keep your seats and other leather parts soft and moisturized. Vacuum the carpet, ash trays and kick panels. Clean the rubber pads on the brakes, clutch and foot feed. Check for those greasy French fires that occasionally fall between the seats and the front console. Don’t forget to vacuum the trunk and rear seat area.   Using a good glass cleaner like Spray-Away will make easy work out of the windows and mirrors.

Coming up…we will cover the best ways to clean that engine and engine compartment.

Things I Don’t Understand-Part Two

 By Monty Wallis

 Not surprisingly, I received lots of comments from the first Things I Don’t Understand story on the website. Lots of people agreed and disagreed and most people had their own list of things they don’t understand.   Oil prices, the stock market and the federal government seem to be on everybody’s list.  So now, I’m adding to my list of things to ponder this Christmas season. If you have time in between shopping, eating and Christmas events give these some thought and add your own.

 First, is the debate over Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas. In my mind, both are fine, but please don’t tell me I can’t wish someone a Merry Christmas. Why anyone would take offense to that greeting is baffling to me. Christmas has always been my favorite holiday, and I can understand why people of other faiths and religions don’t celebrate the season. But wishing someone a Merry Christmas just seems like the right thing to do.

 Here is one that I consider to be important. Why do our federal government representatives have a different retirement program than average Americans? If Social Security is good enough for us, it should be good enough for them. Recently, former Wyoming Senator Alan Simpson called today’s seniors “greedy” for expecting Social Security benefits to continue as promised, while the government is going broke. Last time I checked, we paid many thousands of dollars into the Social Security fund while our elected officials voted to raid the fund and use the money for other purposes.   I wonder…is the former Senator is receiving funds from his federal retirement program? That would be interesting to know.  Let’s make it our goal this next year to get our elected federal representatives off their government-paid private retirement program and back on to Social Security. I’ll bet we would quickly see some major improvements to the Social Security program.

 Here’s one that has always puzzled me…why do they put manhole covers in the driving lanes on streets and highways? It would make more sense to put them between the wheel paths to make a smoother ride. Every newly constructed street has smooth pavement, but bumps when those manhole covers are placed in the path of your tires. And those bumps become more pronounced as pavement settles and tire ruts are worn into the pavement.   I’ve often wondered about an injured person riding in the back of an ambulance. Hitting those man-made bumps has got to be uncomfortable.

 That’s my list for now, and I’m sure I’ll have more lists of things I don’t understand. It seems the older I get, the less things really make sense. And thanks for giving me your lists and ideas. I’ll be sure to use them in future stories.

 

Classic Car Security

 

By Monty Wallis

One of the worst things for a classic car enthusiast to find is an empty space were your pride and joy was parked. Even though such thefts are rare, they do happen right here in hometown USA. But there are steps you can take to prevent and thwart car theft and provide an extra level of security while you store your car for the winter.

First of all, if the unthinkable really happens, it’s important to quickly report the theft to local authorities. That means you should regularly check on the vehicle if it is stored at separate location. Time is of the essence to increase your odds of recovery if your car is stolen. If you live in the city, the local Police Department is your first call. If you live outside the city limits, call your local Sheriff’s office. Make sure you have a solid description of the vehicle including license plate number, VIN, color and other outstanding features that will help identify it if spotted. Also you can hand-deliver a good color photo of the car to authorities including the Highway Patrol. They can put that photo on their shift briefing and the extra attention it will receive can only help. Here is another good idea… take your photo and information to your local newspaper and TV stations. With a little luck, an enterprising reporter will see a good story in your situation and you may get some press coverage because of the vintage status of your car. And don’t forget getting the message out to your local car clubs. Remember, the more eyes, the better the chance of recovery.

But a big part of preventing car thefts depends on what you do before an incident occurs. Storing your car in a secure garage is a big step in the right direction. If possible, having an alarm system on the garage makes it even better. Many classic car insurance companies require indoor storage as part of their coverage contracts. If your classic happens to be parked outside, make sure you have some extra protection available to thwart thieves in the act. Make sure to park in a well lit area. One of cheapest devices available is “The Club” and The Club Auto Brake Lock.” You can find these simple tools at your local Wal-Mart or auto parts store. But remember, they won’t work if you don’t use them.

If cost is a concern, a simple alarm system from your local auto parts store, Radio Shack or J. C. Whitney can also do the trick for under a hundred dollars. If cost is not a consideration, consider a GPS tracking system such as LoJack. Several other manufacturers now have similar GPS units available. You can now install an OnStar system in your classic and your local Best Buy store can provide the installation and equipment.

Just one more thing, do not keep the keys in your vehicle and don’t store a spare key where it can be easily located. Make it as hard as possible for any would-be thieves to rip-off your classic. Thieves are usually lazy opportunists who want to quickly and easily do their work and get out of the area. Your job is to make their job as tough as possible.

By Monty Wallis

The other day,  I talked with another classic car guy about how most gas stations in the area now sell mid-grade gasoline that contains up to 15% ethanol, and how that could affect our cars. His take on the mid-grade ethanol was its value in keeping fuel systems cleaner, especially when our cars are stored over the winter. He said he has been using it regularly every few fill-ups and had experienced no problems.   About that time another car guy showed up for coffee and said he would never put mid-grade gas with ethanol in his classic cars, even with its extra couple of octane. He said it deteriorates older types of fuel lines and clogs gas filters and tank seals Then, in the December 2010 Hemmings Classic Car magazine, a reader complained that gasoline containing ethanol had expanded and overflowed, taking the paint off the side of his Ford Skyliner. So what’s the answer?